Good morning, #fanatikboulder!
We are here today to talk about one of the best block areas in the Eastern Pyrenees, in the Alta Cerdaña region, between the towns of Angoustrina and Font-Romeu. Yes, we are talking about LE CHAOS DE TARGASSONE. Hundreds of quality granite blocks in an environment and views of the south face of Puigmal and the Sierra del Cadí that complete an unbeatable picture for practicing Bouldering. A chaos of granite rocks that will make you enjoy an awful lot!
We first visited this climbing area in the spring of 2016, when we attended the Boulder open competition organized by CHARKO, the CHARKOBLOK. We loved this blocker meeting and we fell totally in love with this #fanatika area.
Its hundreds of good quality granite blocks stretch over several hectares of land full of meadows and hazelnut trees on its gently sloping facing southeast. The weather is far from being a high mountain climate: the area enjoys an excellent microclimate that allows you to visit it practically all year round. Climbing on granite, where friction plays an important role and where there are practically no holes, means that it will be necessary to limit the hours of climbing since it is a very abrasive type of rock that can damage your skin, and make you pay the consequences the morning after. This type of rock presents very few porosities and the detachments are almost non-existent. It is important to brush the holds since the magnesium can fill the gaps between the different grains that make up the rock and end up losing touch.
Most of the holds you will find are in the form of crimps, cracks, and slopers, few edges and many blocks with mantel exits. There are blocks for all levels and to suit the consumer. The blocks are of medium height but you will also find blocks of considerable height. The blocks’ falls are clean and generally flat.
This dream location for bouldering has different sectors spread along the road that goes from Angoustrina and Font-Romeu. We bought the guide at the camping itself, “La Griole” campsite, which houses the oldest climbing sector. The place held as well the Boulder Open that I was talking about before. The guide was really complete, with 17 sectors and more than 1000 blocks reviewed.
The name of the block area is no coincidence, “LE CHAOS”: it is a bit difficult to find your way around, so we recommend buying the guide. It is also a way to reward the work of the people who have made it possible for us to enjoy this bouldering paradise.
Philippe Gondoux is the main protagonist who has opened the majority of blocks in the area. In addition to climbing, you can spend some time visiting the villages of Languedoc-Roussillon region in Alta Cerdaña (both in the French and Spanish side). This time off climbing will also help you regenerate your hands after climbing on granite! Also don’t forget to taste their fantastic gastronomy and try the endless outdoor activities such as hiking, mountain biking, ferratas …
However, this atypical year would not allow us to visit Targassone, which is a classic trip we make every year since we discovered it in 2016. We hope we can go soon and enjoy this wonderful granite chaos in all its glory.